Multnomah Falls is one of the top three "must show" areas that I usually share with out-of-town guests. Cannon Beach and wine country are the other two. But two years ago, I discovered that Bonneville Lock and Dam and the adjoining Bonneville Fish Hatchery were great additions for a day trip to the Gorge. Forty miles east of Portland, this spot is worthwhile aesthetically and educationally.
My friend and I decided to tackle these spots with four kids in tow on a Tuesday in July. After bolstering ourselves with caffeine (a necessity for any trip with four children under the age of seven) and an hour's drive across I-84 (roughly 54 miles from Portland's west side), we arrived at Bonneville Dam around 11:00 A.M. We were greeted by a friendly federal officer at the dam's entrance who inquired whether we were carrying any firearms before waving us through. Because Bonneville Lock and Dam is operated by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers, firearms are not permitted on the premises.Just past the parking lot, visitors can enjoy the views of the dam and surrounding scenery. The sheer power of the dam's crashing waters, as well as its magnificent size, are quite impressive.
Three guided tours per day of Powerhouse 1 are available to visitors at 11 A.M., 1 P.M., and 3 P.M. We just missed the guided tour, but still enjoyed wandering the Bradford Island Visitor Center. Entrance to the center is free-of-charge. The entry-level floor of the center provides a small gift shop, as well as exhibits describing the history of the dam which was started in 1934 and completed in 1937.
The real fun began as we rode the elevator to the underground level to watch migrating sturgeon, salmon, bass, lamprey and other fish from our first row seats as they migrated through underwater fishways. I'm not gonna lie -- the lampreys were more than a little creepy as they attached themselves in clusters via their suction cup mouths to the windows, bodies swaying in time to the movement of the current. My friend aptly described the scene as similar to Medusa's underwater hair.
I felt a little like the human trapped in a fish bowl while gazing at the fish swim upstream on the other side of the glass. But then I discovered the window that allows visitors to watch the employee who got stuck with the least exciting job on the planet: counting and recording fish as they work their way up the ladders. I wish I'd thought to take a picture of the poor soul. But here's a little video of what she sees from her side of the fish bowl.
After a while, we strolled outside to enjoy the surrounding views, as well as ladders for fish to "climb" as they journey up the Columbia. The kids enjoyed glimpses of the salmon struggling against the fast-paced waters.
Next we made our way to the neighboring attraction: the Bonneville Fish Hatchery, also free-of-charge.
Built in 1909, the hatchery "raises 6.6 million fall chinook, 900,000 spring chinook, 750,000 coho, 250,000 summer steelhead and 60,000 winter steelhead. Adult salmon begin arriving at the hatchery in September and are then sorted through before spawning begins" according to the Oregon Deparment of Fish and Wildlife. Visitors are free to wander among the hatchery pools covered by netting which provides the tiny salmon protection from potential predators. The grounds also offer peaceful display ponds full of rainbow trout. Dispensaries of fish food are available for 25 cents per handful. The fish feeding frenzy kept our children entertained for a long time before we finally dragged them away.
The highlight of the visit was, hands down, Herman the Sturgeon's fish tank. Interpretive displays describe Herman as at least 10 feet long, around 70 years old, and over 400 lbs. I know a few fishermen who would be ecstatic upon finding Herman at the end of their fishing poles. But, alas, Herman is only for display, not for dinner. Here's a little footage of Herman in action. I especially appreciated Captain Obvious (you'll hear his voice in the background) reiterating for me that "It's not a shark. Fish don't have teeth." Thanks, Peanut Gallery.
The grounds at the fish hatchery are lovely, especially during summertime when the flowers are in bloom. I regretted not planning a picnic lunch to enjoy onsite.
Speaking of lunch, by the time we completed our dam and hatchery visit, our crew was famished. So, we decided to hit Multnomah Falls on our way back to Portland to see the sights and grab some grub. I opted out of eating lunch at the Multnomah Falls Lodge because of the pricey menu items, but later kicked myself after ordering lunch at the outdoor cafe which included a hot dog, two slices of barely warmed pizza, three bags of chips, and three fountain drinks totaling $25.00!
Next time I'm definitely packing that picnic lunch.
Despite the less-than-impressive meal, the awe inspiring waterfall made the stop worthwhile. Multnomah Falls attracts visitors year round, but tourists swarm during summer months, making the short hike up to the bridge a little tedious, particularly with four rugrats in tow. Nonetheless, we made it in time to watch a nervous, but excited, young man with a Swiss accent propose to his girlfriend in front of the falls and amid throngs of well-wishers. Thankfully, she said yes.
The kids had a great time for a bit, pretending they were going to hurl themselves over the bridge and into the freezing pool below. We took a few photos, but couldn't completely enjoy the experience because it was just too darn crowded. Instead, we made our way back down the path and past the entrance to enjoy the meandering creek below the falls. The kids searched for fish in the clear water while balancing on rocks while we moms took a moment to rest and enjoy the serene views.
Arriving back in Portland around 4 P.M., everyone was pooped, but happy. Except for the $25.00 lunch and fuel, our three stops were completely free and well-worth the trip.
